27 Aug 2013

Evening walk in my vintage shooting suit

Me and my dog had a nice walk in the countryside enjoying the refreshening evening air. I was in my vintage 1970 bespoke shooting suit by Welsh & Jefferies and John Walls (Eton). Lovely brown Prince of Wales check tweed with a sky blue overcheck. Underneath the jacket a Scottish lambswool "Fairisle" slipover. Green wool tie and green shooting socks. Tan brogue shoes.
I apologize for the poor quality of the photos...

24 Aug 2013

Galoshes of fortune

In 1838 Hans Christian Andersen wrote the fairy tale “The Galoshes of Fortune” in which a Fairy brings a pair of magic galoshes to the Earth;
“…I have been entrusted to bring a pair of galoshes to mankind. These galoshes have this peculiarity, that whoever puts them on will immediately find himself in whatever time, place, and condition of life that he prefers. His every wish in regard to time and place will instantly be granted, so for once a man can find perfect happiness here below."
I believe my galoshes to be of fortune, too, without the ability to transfer me in time and space. I find perfect happiness in wearing them assured that my beloved leather soles are well protected from pools of rain – and later salt and snow.

My galoshes are from Norwegian Swims – model classic in dark brown, size L. My shoe size is UK 8½ (EU 42,5). The rubber is sturdy and could be more flexible, but I guess it is a matter of too flexible rubber would result in squelching galoshes. The best fit is for my English Goodyear welted shoes – the slightly longer pointed toes at my Magnanni shoes are a bit squeezed.

The galoshes are not a pretty sight, but very practical in use. At some point I hope to find them in a design in thinner rubber with a less dominant sole.
Or maybe a couple of vintage 1930s galoshes?

Vintage 1930s galoshes at Ebay

Boutonnière flower stem-loop

On a few of my vintage bespoke suits the tailor made a boutonnière flower stem-loop - a small braided cord on the back of the lapel a few inches below the buttonhole to keep the flower stem in place. 
As I occasionally wear a boutonnière flower also to work (e.g. if we have a bouquet of flowers in a vase at home) I make sure that all my jackets with a lapel buttonhole have a boutonnière loop, too; so I sew three pieces of thread into the back of the lapel, plait them into a cord and attach the end of the cord.
Here on my 1960s bespoke suit:

Bertram Wilberforce Wooster strolling down Dover Street, London, on the way to his club.As always wearing a fresh boutonnière flower 

21 Aug 2013

Country suit and trilby hat

Going for a walk in the late afternoon in the small village in the countryside where I live - just arrived back home from work - I prefer to change attire; the super 110 light grey business suit and exquisite shoes does not quite match the country side - especially on such a grey and windy afternoon with a high risk of rain.
The shirt, bow tie and socks I wore at work, too, but the suit I changed.
Today I matched the suit with my brown wool felt trilby hat. Lovely skirmish for wind and light rain - the hat and the suit.

A 1932 bespoke Denman & Goddard of Eton country suit. Wool felt Trilby from Jaxon Hats. Blue double cuffed shirt from Stenström's. Blue spotted woolen handkerchief from Reiss, London. Wine OTC cotton socks from Grunwald. Wine spotted cotton bow tie from Swagger and Swoon. Dark brown brogue shoes.

The suit and trilby reminds me of Bertram Wooster ending up travelling to Ditteredge Hall in this attire on account of the astute Jeeves' recommendations.

Jeeves & Wooster, ITV S01E01

More pictures of me in my suit:

18 Aug 2013

Weekend at seaside hotel in Glücksburg

This weekend my wife and I spent at the seaside hotel Strandhotel Glücksburg in Schleswig-Holstein to celebrate our one-year wedding anniversary. This grand hotel was built in 1872.

I brought three suits for the weekend: a thornproof tweed suit for the journey and for day trips in the area, a worsted navy pinstripe suit for pursuits in and out the hotel and a dinner suit for the evenings.

Looking at the lovely view over Flensburg fjord in my thornproof tweed suit. Shirt from The Vintage Shirt Company (at Darcy Clothing) with a detachable 1920s sports collar    

Enjoying a moment of rest in a classic, roofed beach chair at the hotel front lawn. Vintage 1960s wool navy pinstripe suit. Selftipped tie from Antonio Muro. Dark brown oxford shoes from Magnanni.

On the way to a gourmet evening dinner at the hotel. Vintage 1950s 3 piece dinner suit from Brown Muff & Co. Shirt from The Vintage Shirt Company with stiffened front, black onyx studs and a detachable high wing collar. Patent leather oxford shoes from Magnanni.
We had a nice little room at the second floor. The decor of the hotel is in a very consistent bright scandinavian style.

Five pairs of shoes for the weekend was maybe overdoing it a bit...

Unpacking the suit case. Also brought a brown trilby and a black Homburg besides my flat cap

16 Aug 2013

Clive Exton - a Mastermind in British Pre-war fiction TV dramatization

Clive Exton
Clive Exton (11 April 1930 – 16 August 2007) was a British TV and film screenwriter sometime playwright, and former actor. 

He is best known for his scripts of Agatha Christie's Poirot (of which he wrote 20 episodes) and P.G. Wodehouse's Jeeves & Wooster (all 23 episodes). The TV episodes are an inexhaustible source of inspiration to many a sartorial journey.

I am grateful and full of admiration for his impeccable work visualizing the wonderful worlds of Christie and Wodehouse in which company I have spent many a fine hour. I am convinced that his pioneering in TV dramatization lives on in the BBC and remains reflected in newer TV dramatizations like Downton Abbey, Blandings Castle etc.

Jeeves & Wooster (and McIntosh-the-dog)

In honour of his memory
- Clive Exton.
Hercule Poirot


13 Aug 2013

Vintage bespoke suit by Meyer & Mortimer, Sackville Street

In the slightly cooler weather this afternoon I was soon to embellish in my green check thorn proof tweed suit. Bespoke by tailors Meyer & Mortimer. Made in 1973 for a Major L.I.G.G. Maclean. The snug feeling of the exquisite cut and fabric is marvellous. The suit is three piece, but it is still too warm to wear the vest.
Here matched with a custom made Stenstöm's shirt and a navy dotted silk bow tie. Braces from Drake's, London and a woolen handkerchief from Reiss, London. Brown full brogue shoes. In the last picture wearing a bond cap from Pakeman, Catto & Carter.

11 Aug 2013

Project: a waistcoat for my vintage J. Waller grey striped suit

In the early spring I got this fabulous vintage bespoke suit at bookster UK ebay store for a mere 55£.
The suit is made of medium/heavy weight worsted wool; grey with brown stripes. The suit included two pairs of trousers – the one pair with cuffs, which I laid down to get the correct length. The other pair of trousers did not have cuffs and are too short legged for me.

Upon many thoughts I have decided to disassemble the extra pair of trousers. Fabric, seams and lining are in perfect condition, so I felt some ambiguity about doing so. But the purpose is to make up drawings/a pattern for a new pair of flannel trousers based on the various parts of cloth; see also Project: Flannel trousers 
After this I will use the spare fabric to sew a waistcoat for the suit by hand.
I enjoy immensely the wearing of waist coats for my suits during winter – and a waist coat in the same fabric is preferable.
I am making a pattern for the waist coat based on measurements from my vintage navy pin stripe waist coat. The current tasks are to disassemble the trousers completely and looking for the right coloured viscose fabric for the back of the waist coat which might turn out to be difficult to find.

I expect the process of making a waist coat by hand – including six buttonholes – will be a longevous one. But also a good learning experience. I will share the pictures…

10 Aug 2013

Shoe polish - a daily recreational activity

Most nights I rub a pair or two of my shoes with Saphir shoe wax. Every third time using cream to saturate the leather with moist and filling any small lines in the surface. I tend to use any pair of shoes just once a week. And between every use applying vax.
Here a pair of Cheaney's and a pair of Magnanni's applied with Saphir cream. 
Tomorrow I will be applying vax prior to a good polish.
I use the rich vax colour #34, Havanna Tobacco for both pairs. An advice I took up somewhere (from Grunwald, I believe) which gives the lighter brown coloured shoes a deeper and more aged glow.
It is a most enjoyable recreation to nourish one's shoes... 
Here is the impeccable Jeeves performing the very same task...

6 Aug 2013

A business trip for two nights

For the short business trips by plane I only bring one piece of hand luggage; my trusted 1950s vintage suitcase.
These days I am in Oslo. 
I chose to wear my navy pinstripe woolen suit from Austin Reed, London. Arriving late by plane and then two full days at work put strains to the suit and the one pair of shoes. But this suit has proven it's worth on previous  trips. A good brush and a hang during the night does the trick. 
I forgot my shoe trees so I had to be creative:
I brought a pink and a blue shirt for the next couple of days and a white shirt for the one night in town.

Furthermore three polka dotted bow ties (the navy one suitable for the night in town) and my RL tie. 
Notice the matching OTC cotton socks.

4 Aug 2013

Untipped tie from Ralph Lauren

I tend to avoid buying RL because so much of their garments and accessories are made in China; I think it is important to keep sartorial crafts and skills alive in Europe.
Also the extensive use of oversized logos is un-appealing. But they have some suits and ties made in Italy. And especially their handmade Italian Neapolitan style ties are very exquisite.

The other day I found this lovely tie from RL reasonably priced at Malford of London. It is made from vintage silk. The un-tipped tie is perfect for wearing with the lighter fabrics of summer time suits.
I find the green colour very versatile.

Here I wear it with my off-the-peg navy pinstripe wool suit from Austin Reed, London.

1 Aug 2013

The 3 piece suit anno 1870

When I saw this 3 piece suit at the Danish National Museum I was quite surprised of how similar it looks to modern day shooting suits.

This suit is a sports suit made for the Danish King Christian IX, approx. 1870.