30 May 2014

A late 1930s linen suit

Not too long ago I found this marvellous vintage linen suit from America; bought in the late 1930s at De Pinna department store, 5th Avenue, New York by a college graduate.
It is made from a lovely, quality linen fabric. And after more than seventy years still in perfect shape.
Single breasted, 3 button jacket; unconstructed, patch pockets, notched lapels. Double pleated, cuffed trousers.
The suit needs a few alterations, though, to fit perfectly; legs and arms must be shortened by a 1/2"-3/4" and the shoulders are a tad too wide. I hope to get the alterations done soon.

Inspirational photo - the suit could be matched with a white shirt with detachable collar, a halfblue tie, spectator shoes and a Panama hat. 

Here is a picture of the suit from the Seller - I can't wait to take it into use!

The seller quoted some remarks from the son of the man who bought the suit in the late 1930s:

"On Friday June 28, 1940 my Father dressed in this linen suit and his best friend - both newly minted physicians - steamed away from Pier 32 in NYC on the American Republics Line S.S. Argentina bound for a great adventure to South America. For two months they ventured by ocean liner, train, private car, donkey and dugout to 'Rio, Sao Paulo (the Chicago of Brazil), Montevideo, Buenos Aires, the Great Lakes way to the south hidden amongst the Andes, Arequipa and the Quinta Bates, Cuzco and Macchu Picchu on the swift waters of the Urubamba, the myriads of flamingos resting on the shores of Lake Titicaca and Lima the 'City of Kings.'' These were the days where each accommodation was preceded by a letter of introduction, one dressed for dinner, and the world unfurled before you."

...a lovely story 

1930s inspiration

27 May 2014

Cotton/Linen DB jacket from Suitsupply

My cotton/linen DB jacket was taken into use for the first time this summer. The lightweight fabrics of my contemporary suits and jackets seems a bit flimsy in the beginning of the season; still being used to the stouter vintage fabrics. I have but a few vintage summer suits and jackets, but they need some alterations before being taken into use.

But today at work I wore my lovely cotton/linen jacket from Dutch SuitSupply; Made from a very nice fabric by Italian Subalpino. I am very pleased with this jacket; the quality and fit are quite good. And I love the unconstructed shoulders and the wide peaked lapels.
Matched with tan cotton trousers (somewhat creased after a day at the office and in the car), a blue subtle checked shirt from Stenströms, my coffee Tussah silk tie from Drakes London, and wine OTC socks from Mes Chausettes Rouges.

After office hours going for a quick stroll in the village I topped the attire off with my Panama hat (from Equadorian Pachacuti - a FairTrade company).

17 May 2014

A white flat cap for Summer sports

The warm weather returned this weekend and calls for lighter coloured attire and garden sports; like Croquet. Today I wore cream moleskin trousers and cricket pullover; a white collarless shirt from Darcy Clothing - worn without a detachable collar; a white lawn cotton scarf; beige OTC cotton socks from Mes Chausettes Rouges and tan Oxford Brogues. And of course my new white flat cap.
Just today I finished my little needlework project: a white flat cap for Summer sports. Entirely made by hand; cut from a selfmade pattern.
I had been searching for such headwear to fit in where the straw Boater or the Panama would not be suitable - e.g. in windy weather or in physical activities where running is implied. I considered the 'Baker Boy' cap but prefer the look of the 'Bond' flat cap.
So I made one...

The flat cap (Bond style) is made from a natural off white wool fabric with soft linen lining.

Surveilling the Croquet field

Soft linen lining

Robert Redford in "The Great Gatsby" wearing a white "Baker Boy" cap

12 May 2014

My vintage 1935 Morning Stroller suit

The Morning Stroller suit is a beautiful alternative to the lounge suit; a most treasured break. A Morning Stroller suit consists of a black lounge jacket (single or double breasted), striped or houndstooth trousers and a waistcoat; so we have some of the same room for mixing and matching as in the Morning Suit, but less formal with the short jacket.
My suit is a vintage 1935 making by bespoke tailors Twhaites & Penn of Newgate Street, London.

Stand at attention in the library

The jacket (SB with peaked lapels) and waistcoat are in black herringbone weave wool. The trousers striped and without cuffs. All in all pretty formal. I have matched it with my blue striped Stenström's shirt with white collar and cuffs. And of course the navy "Churchill" dotted bow tie. 
A suit used by ministers, polititians etc. since the German Foreign Minister Gustav Stresemann first appeared in a SB black lounge jacket with his Morning Suit trousers in 1925. Including of course Sir Winston Churchill.

A firm look out the window

I wear my Morning Stroller for work sometimes; as an alternative to the business suits. Slightly more formal some would say, but in my mind fully appropriate e.g. for business meetings with my company's German supplier of software. A suit with a history is an excellent ice breaker.
I would also wear the Morning Stroller on occasions like a walk in the park in weekends or at funerals. For day weddings and christenings I prefer the Morning coat with it's becoming tails.

Lovely stripes

Peaked collar. Beautiful herringbone weave.

Gustav Stresemann (sitting at the bench to the right) in a black SB jacket, black waistcoat and striped trousers. The high wing collar and black (long) tie are a tad too formal for my work - I would save such neckwear for a funeral.

The impeccable Jeeves in his Morning Suit. SB jacket, peaked collar, black waist coat and striped trousers; Bowler and black tie - very appropriate for a Gentleman's Gentleman.

On the way out - grabbing the Homburg and the Chamois gloves
Placing the Homburg properly

Just like the proper hat for a Morning Stroller suit is the Homburg so are the Chamois gloves a perfect choice for this suit. My gloves are a lovely vintage pair made in England by Fownes Gloves Ltd.

My vintage British made Chamois gloves with real MOP buttons and a decorative navy stiching.

Stroller consisting of DB jacket and checked trousers, but Homburg and Chamois gloves

To the upper right: Morning Stroller with a bow tie and blue striped shirt.

2 May 2014

Drakes London Tussah silk tie

A period of warm weather here in Denmark plus the fact that we passed Labour Day have made me starting to change wardrobes; the heavier tweeds and flannels are being aired, brushed and stowed away in linen bags for the summer. But my versatile 1973 Meyer & Mortimer thornproof tweed suit is suitable also for the cooler Summer days (in Denmark).
Friday I skipped the waistcoat and added my newest tie: a lovely textured Tussah silk tie from Drakes London. The crude silk in a loose weave is very suitable for Summer. And the tie has a lovely golden coffee hue. 
This ensemble matched with tan longwing Oxford brogues is very suitable for a sunny Spring day; topped of with a Panama hat also suitable for a stroll in the lovely June weather...

Ready for work after a quick breakfast

Handrolled at Drakes London

A beautiful texture to the weave

The caterpillars producing the wild silk used for Tussah silk - while living in high trees - one day transforms to moths. Kind of ironical if the moths producing these lovely textured silks ends up eating parts of your wardrobe...

The Tussah moth