29 Jun 2014

Cricket whites from Fox Brothers

Ever since I first laid my eyes on the beautiful white flannel cloth from Fox Brothers I knew I had to have a pair of trousers made. I was working on my own high waisted pattern when The Merchant Fox offered ready made white cricket flannels - made from the 13 Oz cloth. Tailored in England by a British supplier of military attire.
So I went for a pair of RTW cricket flannels - all though priced a bit lavish for my budget.

Playing croquet in the garden on a sunny afternoon.


The trousers come unhemmed - unfortunately a bit too short for making cuffs (I'm a 31½" inner leg man). The rise is approx. 11" and leg opening approx. 8"1/4.
Which gives a pair of trousers that does not have that modern hip waist, but also not quite high waisted enough for my vintage waist coats. But the flannels look great with my cricket jumper and the Cambridge Blue.
I have added brace buttons myself as I prefer braces.
The cloth is absolutely marvellous and you might get addicted to the feel of the soft flannel. Mind you though that you have to wear undergarments and stockings in neutral colours not to show through the flannels.





Enjoying a glas of Cava after games. The Cambridge Blue gives warmth and comfort after the strains in the croquet field.

The white flannel cloth is available at The Merchant Fox by the metre and eventually I will have my own pair of high waisted, full cut and cuffed trousers made.

From The Merchant Fox

Cricket whites en masse; early 20th century.

Now I am of course on the lookout for a pair of white canvas boots...
A pair of vintage 30s/40s boots at Etsy

Vintage boots at a photo shoot. Boots rented from London based Carlo Manzi, 

22 Jun 2014

Argyle socks from Burlington

I bought new Argyle cotton socks from British Burlington because I love wearing breeches and plusfours, but my woolen shooting socks are too warm for the summer. 
And because I intend to take on Golfing- a sport where Argyle socks seems to be quite appropriate.

Not many suppliers provide knee lenght socks in a proper quality, but Burlington does. I went for the "Horse riding" variant with a plus sole and reinforced ancles. The socks are a tad thicker; making them suitable for wearing with breeches - compared to the normal, thin OTC socks for long trousers.

I bought a pair in taupe and a pair in brown hues. The Burlington "Hackney" from Sockshop UK

Off to the golf course

The Burlington Badge

Lovely Argyle patterns


1930s plusfours and Argyle socks





16 Jun 2014

Morning Suit at a child christening party

This weekend my family and I attended a child christening at some friends of ours at the Isle of Bornholm. The weather was perfect for a summer party; 20 degrees Celcius and a deep blue sky with a few fluffy cumulus clouds.
I wore my Morning suit which I find appropriate for the occation - and the settings; Christening at Sct. Nicolai church in Rønne and afterwards the party at the officer's mess hall at the local military barracks. Party started 11 AM  and ended between 4-5 PM.

Vintage 1930s morning coat, vintage Eton Pop Society waist coat, white shirt with a detachable wing collar and a navy dotted silk bowtie. Black Oxford cap toes and a vintage grey Lincoln Bennett & Co. tophat. 

Logistic circumstances resulted in my skipping the boutonnière flower
The Morning Coat back and tails are very becoming for a man (in my opinion).
The little baby girl in question - her name is "Ella"






Sct. Nicolai church in Rønne, Bornholm



8 Jun 2014

A sage green Summer jacket and waist coat

Sage green might be an unconventional hue for a suit or a jacket, but this vintage set of jacket and waist coat I obtained from America quite does the trick for a sunny Summer day. The sage green looks good in the sun and matches also the cricket white trousers perfectly. In these pictures the jacket and waist coat is matched with my vintage 1951 grey, high waisted trousers, though.

The sage green jacket is complemented with a light pink shirt from Stenström's; the coffee Tussah silk tie from Drakes; and a white cotton pocket square 

The jacket is fully unconstructed; no lining at all and nothing extra in the shoulders and as such very light and suitable for warmer weather.  The jacket is pleated and belted at the back. Lapels are quite wide.
 
The back is pleated and belted
In the warm afternoon sun it does good to get rid of the waist coat and use the jacket as a cape; Italian style. 
 The jacket and waist coat is from American Richmann Brothers; being from a department store rather than custom made or bespoke makes dating the jacket more complicated. But the cut of the jacket matches other 1930s jackets I have, the waist coat is really cut for a high waist which also indicates 1930s-1950s and the navy eagle of the NRA label,which was used in America from 1933 until declared unconstitutional in 1935 also dates the attire to the 1930s. 

National Recovery Administration (NRA) was one the initiatives from F.D. Roosevelt's New Deal which should bring America back on the track. NRA was making directives for minimum wages and other initiatives to protect the workers from "unhealthy" competition in various industries.








3 Jun 2014

Cotton/linen DB jacket from Suitsupply, part II

Just a short update on the cottonlinen-db-jacket-from-suitsupply; wanted to show the jacket with a pair of vintage trousers and in a different colour scheme.
The vintage trousers are bespoke made in september 1951 by tailors A.H. Silcock & Son, Putney SW15.
I feel more comfortable in these high-waisted, brilliant quality trousers.