16 Feb 2015

The diplomat's suit

During fall last year I acquired a vintage bespoke suit  from Gentleman's outfitter Savvy Row; a lovely medium/heavy weight grey worsted DB suit. The suit was originally commissioned by sir Guy Millard - a British senior diplomat. The suit was made in Savile Row in 1975 when sir Guy was still the British Ambassador to Italy.

Sir Guy Millard; read more about his life and career in this obituary 

The suit is quite contemporary in cut and style with the narrow legs and a slim short jacket - the closing of 4x1 button (four button front of which only 1 button is working) adding to the slender look; especially taken into account that the suit was made for a gentleman aged 58 forty years ago.
The colour and fabric makes the suit quite versatile and gives room for matching different colours of shirts, ties and shoes.
I wear the suit at the office; sometimes with a white shirt, detachable wing collar, a tie and black Oxford shoes; other days with a sky-blue shirt, a paisley bow tie and black brogue shoes.
Today, I went with my green Magnanni shoes; grey spats (which I think looks great with the narrow legs and cuffs - a 1920s look); a blue-striped double cuffed Stenström's shirt and a green untipped vintage silk tie.

As usual I added brace buttons to the trousers; braces are indispensable

4x1 button front

No vent

Wide, peaked lapels

Working cuffs

Cream shirt from Tyrwhitt; Shantung silk tie from Drake's; Pocket square from Rubinacci; fur-felt Bowler hat from Christy's; and oxblood shoes from Herring (Drake)

Bespoke tailors Sandon & Co, Savile Row
The double-breasted suit with 4x1 button  is often seen worn by the Duke of Windsor; a jacket closing that elongates the body and thus "adds" height to the bearer.

The Duke of Windsor


  1. Interesting. Made on Savile Row by whom?

    1. Dear Marc, indeed interesting; in 1975 when fashion was wide legs this 58 year-old diplomat stuck to his own style. I have added two pictures to this post from today: one the pictures shows the tailor's label "Sandon & Co., 7-8 Savile Row" from august 1975. Cheers