26 Apr 2015

White bow tie from Drake's; Imperial collar from Darcy Clothing; and a vintage silk scarf

Not quite satisfied with the look of my white tie accessories I set out to make an upgrade of my formal evening wardrobe; or at least having more options of combining collars and bow ties. 
I wanted a bat shaped silk alternative to my classic butterfly shaped Marcella cotton bow tie; the butterfly shape kind of interfered with the wing collar.

I will not say that I looked for the white bow tie in many places as I have been spoiled by the ever appropriate quality and design by Drake's London; and Drake's have at the moment a fine collection of formal bow ties.
The basket weave white silk and the classic straight end cricket bat shape was just what I was looking for.

Wearing my vintage 1951 Malmstrom of Sackville Street evening tails with a stiff front, single cuff shirt with a detachable Imperial collar (both from Darcy Clothing in East Sussex), a vintage Marcella cotton, backless waistcoat and patent leather shoes from Magnanni. And of course the white silk bat shaped bow tie from Drake's London.

I love the basket weave and the fat, light cream silk

The bow tie fresh out of the box from Drake's. I will remove the buckles and instead make sure the bow tie has the proper non-adjustable lenght.

Straight end. Lovely structure.

A vintage 1930s top hat from Austin Reed

Washable Imperial straight collar from Darcy Clothing

Top Hat; silk scarf; and a walking cane

A vintage silk scarf with hand-knotted fringes

Have a nice evening!

 A few links to turn your attention to previous but relevant posts on this blog:

My 1929 silver knob handled walking cane
Detachable collars for certain sense of Grandeur
At the Great Gatsby Party

22 Apr 2015

The 1930s tweed kilt jacket - by tailor William Kinloch Anderson

My 1930s green tweed kilt jacket is perfect for a bicycle ride in the Spring: the short length with a cut away front and high cut armholes allow free movement and the narrow sleeves are highly aerodynamic.
I had a grand tour on my bicycle this afternoon in the lovely 17 degree Celsius sunny weather.

Light blue shirt, coffee Tussah silk tie, tan plus-fours, argyle socks and a khaki linen baker boy cap

Double vented back

The vintage tweed jacket is well-made indeed with lovely shaped shoulders, handmade button holes and highly detailed stitching. 
Being more than 80 years old the fabric is surprisingly soft and with vivid colours; but tear and wear also resulted in a few holes that need to be over-darned. I will attend to the over-darning when I have acquired the proper skills. 

When I acquired the jacket all buttons were missing, so I bought a beautiful set of brown-blonde real buffalo horn buttons from Grunwald-True-Style.

More than eighty years but still being very beautiful

Detail from inner slit pocket

Two-button working cuffs

Brown-blonde buffalo horn button

Tailors William Kinloch Anderson and Sons still exist in Edinburgh 

The shop on George Street in the 1910s
Beautiful colours

The cut-away front reminded me of my vintage morning jacket and dinner jacket which both have this construction of two buttons which allow for more spacey closing option. So I went for the special two-button mount on this jacket, too; Leaves extra room for a waistcoat or a  freer movement when riding a bicycle

Need of over-darning

Previous post where I wore riding-breeches and boots with the kilt jacket: link

The RHs the Dukes of York and Wales in the 1930s wearing tweed kilt jackets

10 Apr 2015

The rope-stripe suit

I read an interesting article once about the origins of the striped suit; traditionally thought of as a wardrobe staple of conservatively dressed bankers and business men.
But Susan North - at that time a deputy curator of Textiles and Dress at Victoria and Albert's Museum in London - explains that "when the striped suit arrived on the scene it wasn't staid or respectable at all - it was flashy!". The pinstripe was a fashion of the 1920s, when there was a lot more variety in both fabrics and patterns and North believes it (the pinstripe suit) was inspired by the boating suit of the 1890s, which had a thin, dark stripe on a white or cream background.*
Watching events like Pitti Uomo it is evident that the striped suits are in fashion once more - with the usual fashionable take of narrow, short trousers and jacket.

My three-piece rope stripe suit is a small jewel in my office wardrobe. The suit is well-made by bespoke tailors George Watson & Son, London, in 1985.
Good attention has been paid to details like hand-made button holes and stitching of excessive fabric in sleeves and legs.
And a thing I always look for in a bespoke suit: a boutonnière stem loop on the back of the lapel.

The jacket is single breasted with three buttons and notch lapels. Double vented.
The trousers are high-waisted with brace buttons - just like I prefer - and the fit on hips and waist is perfect. No cuffs.
The charcoal fabric is of medium weight.
This suit is for me a timeless classic rather than a contemporary fling.

Dressed fairly conservatively in my three-piece charcoal rope-stripe suit, a blue classic collar Stenström´s shirt,a sky-blue tie, a white pocket square and a white boutonnière flower. Black Oxford captoe shoes.
A white shirt and a printed silk tie would have been a tad more classic City of London

A beautiful pattern

High-waisted trousers with brace buttons and side-adjusters

The finishing touches - the clothes brush is handmade by brushmaker Lars Guldbrantsen at "Bornholmer-børsten"

About ready to put on the jacket

Double vented back

Photo shot after 10 hours at the office and in the car. White shirt with detachable round collar; green vintage silk un-tipped tie; wine paisley wool-silk pocket square; oxblood oxford captoe shoes from (Herring Drake) 

George Watson & Son, Royal Exchange London, 1985

Royal Exchange London

*Source: http://www.departures.com/fashion/dress-code/day-life-pinstripe-suit

6 Apr 2015

A sky-blue Tussah silk tie from Drake’s London

Last year I had the Mantra: "Every month buy something from Drake's London"; the design, craftmanship and quality of the broad range of exquisite articles are indisputably good.
I have first hand experience with their Shantung and Tussah silk ties; bow ties; woolen, knitted cardigans; their pocket squares; and their OTC socks.
The quality and design never lets me down.
I did not buy something from Drake's every month, though; tempted as I was. But the exquisite trimmings are a tad lavishly priced to frequent the store that often.  

Once in a while you should have a look at the excellent ties from Drake's at the London based online retailer Exquisite Trimmings.
Shaya Green from Exquisite Trimmings have a grand selection of Gentleman's wardrobe staples and often at a good price.
At this Bank Holiday sale at Exquisite Trimmings I took home a wardrobe staple: a sky-blue Tussah silk tie from Drake's London. An excellent choice for Spring/Summer...

Shades of blue; linen-cotton DB jacket from Suit-supply; light blue double-cuffed shirt from Stenström's

Beautiful texture to the weave

Handrolled in London

Gift box from Exquiste Trimmings

My "collection" of Tussah silk ties from Drake's London

A previous post on Drake's Tussah silk tie: link

Coffee Tussah silk tie

1 Apr 2015

White Summer Shoes from Doucal´s

For a long time I thought that I had to be searching for vintage shoes from the 1930s to get a proper shoe that would fit into that quintessential British Summer style. But there are virtually no shoes out there in my size and in a condition that makes them wearable.
I have also been making numerous inquiries on the american Summer shoe: the white bucks. But I was not quite contempt with the look of the crude rubber soles.
The regular manufacturers of shoes that I naturally would turn to did not offer the white brogue I was searching for - Cheaney & sons, C&J, G&G, Edward Green; neither of them has this RTW.  

But there it was all of a sudden: a proper British looking shoe with a twist of Italian Summer.
The Doucal's.

The Doucal's White Brogues

The Doucal's is an Italian shoe manufacturer established in 1973 by Mario Giannini. 
Originally named "Duca" - the Italian word for Duke - but after the founder spent several months in the British shoemaking Mecca of Northampton being introduced to the principles of proper British shoe-making, he anglicised the name of his artisanal enterprise to "Doucal's". 

The shoe is a beautifully designed wingtip Derby brogue with a discrete, narrow-lined leather sole; soft (!) white grain upper leathers and highly detailed stiching.
I am highly satisfied with this shoe!

Tilføj billedtekst

The brouging looks grand - I like the bigger holes along the wingtips.

Leather sole attached to the uppers in a manner resembling the Goodyear welting. Partly reinforced by a rubber sole. 

Deauville 1913

I have started inspecting the Summer wardrobe; been dusting of the old linen storage bags and checking the attire for needs of mending or cleaning. 
I am especially looking forward to be wearing my vintage linen plus-fours with over-the-calf cotton socks and my new Doucal's white brogues!

Having a great time inspecting the Summer attire

Natural coloured OTC socks from Drakes of London  

Sky-blue Fil d'Ecosse OTC socks from Mazarin

I have gathered some more inspirational pictures for a Gentlemanly Summer at Pinterest.
Notice the linen plus-fours worn by Scott Fitzgerald :-)

Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald in September 1921