28 Aug 2015

Tobacco Linen Suit from Bladen

Inspired by a Swedish guy I am following on Instagram I looked by a Swedish Gentleman's Outfitter called Tweed Country Sports.They have a small store in Rörstrandsgatan in Stockholm and a fine online shop. I was looking for a linen or fresco suit to reinforce my Summer wardrobe.
I falled in love with a tobacco three-piece linen suit; made from the finest 12 oz Irish linen by British Bladen. A lovely cigar brown hue...

Tobacco linen suit from Bladen

Medium to high waist and accentuated pleats

The cut is contemporary with fitted jacket waist and shorter lenght. The trousers are also slim but with a medium-to-high waist and deep single forward pleats that gives room.
The making is ok; jacket half-lined with natural horsehair interlining and lined with cupro bemberg.
Real horn buttons - a must-have.
I am not too fond of the button-holes, though; being used to handmade quality from my vintage bespoke suits.
I will eventually change the cuffs to working cuffs with handmade button-holes; Bladen have most kindly fully prepared the cuffs for the change in their design.
Legs come unfinished (36"), so I made deep (55 mm) cuffs... lovely!
The suit creases  (obviously) during use but that is quite OK; fits the degree of informality and Summer.
It's a true versatile suit during Spring and Summer; suitable for office, for town, for garden, for day and evening. And easier to wear than my 1930s white linen suit.
And it's great for wearing as separetes: e.g. jacket with cream Fox flannels or trousers with a denim blue linen DB sports coat.

Cream Fox flannels; light blue DB cuff Stenström's shirt; green vintage silk RL untipped tie
 Handmade shoes from Vass in antique cognac
I prefer blue or blue-striped shirts with the suit - white seems too formal and adds too much contrast -  at least during day time.
The waistcoat needs more alterations;  It's always difficult to get a decent fit in a waistcoat, but in this case I also judge wrong design: the waistcoat is simply far too long (at least 2").
But all in all a lovely suit and not last time I will consider a pair of Bladen trousers - I really like the fit.
In regards to ready-to-wear linen jackets in this price range I prefer the making of Suit-supply; the comfortable, unconstructed, Neapolitan cut.

Denim blue linen DB jacket from Suit-supply; shantung silk tie from Drake's; pocket square from Rubinacci; Blue shirt from Stenström's; OTC cotton socks from Bresciani (#Mes Chausettes Rouges)

Real horn buttons. Cuffs prepared for working cuffs.
Dark leaf Cheaney's and deep cuffs.

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