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21 Mar 2015

Herring Drake - the 1966 last

I have been looking for a an extra pair of darkish brown Oxford shoes for a while. And wanting to step up in quality I have been watching the beautiful shoes from Gaziano & Girling and Edward Green; the retail prices of some £750-£850 have been holding me back,though.
At the same time I have been admiring the sleek, spade-shaped 1966 last from Herring. The Drake is a result of a corporation between Herring and Alfred Sargent.
A good quality shoe, based on a sleek last and built with a quality English oak bark leather sole (from J.&J.F. Baker in Devonshire)  and the finest French and Italian leathers for the upper. Made on the premises of Alfred Sargent in Northampton.
...and I went for this; I want to explore the out-spoken advantages of the oak bark leather sole

Herring Drake - oxblood Oxford hole-punched captoe

The shoe has a lovely rolled waist - not the fiddle back waists of G&Gs and not the straight waist of Cheaneys; but something in between. 
The hand burnishing is not paid much attention to compared to the higher priced G&Gs, but I do not mind; as long as the basic craftmanship of oak bark leather soles sturdily attached to fine upper leathers; shaped on a last with a high in-step; a tight waist and narrow heels; I am happy. 
The oxblood coloured leathers I will take good care of over the years to come and under my use of Saphir médaille d'or waxes in a mix of Burgundy and dark Havanna-Brown hues the uppers will age beautifully, I am sure.
I am quite happy with the finishing of stichings, the colours and the hidden channeling of the good-year welted soles. All in all the shoes appear to be of a good quality.
And I really like the looks and the embracing feeling of the tight waist.




High in-step; spade-shaped; classic square toe

The 1966 last by Herring


Made in Northampton, England

Rolled waists on the oak bark leather soles







3 Jan 2015

Riding boots; a walk in the woods and meadows

Maybe it is a faux-pas, but I could not resist to acquire a pair of vintage gentleman's hunting riding boots even though I do not hunt or master the art of horse-riding. I simply love the the look of riding breeches and tall boots; I have ever since I was a young boy admiring the cavalery uniforms of Napoleon's and the Duke of Wellington's armies.
I am not into the stylized look of skinny catwalk models from e.g. Ralph Lauren wearing riding boots - it seems like a sheer ostentatious act. But the riding boots used in terrain where one otherwise would have chosen a pair of Wellingtons or for a match of Bike Polo paired with a proper pair of gentleman's breeches I believe it makes reason.

Today the usual party went for a walk in the forest and meadows next to the largest creek in Denmark.The terrain is quite muddy and several paths have been flooded this time of the year. The temperature is warm for a January day - 5-6 degrees Celsius; During midday and early afternoon mainly blue sky with altocumuli.
Considering the grounds and the weather conditions I chose to wear a vintage Scottish Kilt Jacket, a houndstooth check hunting waistcoat, a pair of heavy twill riding breeches and riding boots.

Vintage riding hunting boots from Gentleman Outfitter Hogspear. I love the mahogany leather top of the boots. As I did with my military boots when I was enlisted I make sure that the riding boots are properly greased to ensure that they are waterproof.

Watching my steps in the flooded meadow

Appropriate attire for the surroundings

The old preserved oak woods is during most of the year inhabited by hoofed creatures; cows.

A view over the flooded lowland and the creek
I have always liked the look of riding boots in the hallway


Nailed heels on the boots

The mahogany topped boots matches the hues of the fox

HRH Prince Philip wearing a pair of riding boots playing bike polo 

I have pinned a few photos of Gentleman's riding breeches and boots at Pinterest

Chester Morris by Otto Dyar